“Mommy! Is this how big the world is?!”

– Her disbelief was palpable. Having just arrived at Chapman’s Peak view point, overlooking the vast ocean, her four year old eyes and mind were clearly and completely dumbfounded.

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“This is God’s country.”

We were flying around a sharp corner. That last part of Chapman’s Peak right where it turns into Hout Bay. It’s difficult to hear anything except adrenalin pumping through your veins at that point, but this one-liner from a passing cyclist stood out.

We hear it said all the time, “South Africa is one of the most beautiful places in the world.” And it’s true. But to really pack the punch, I think next time I hear it I’ll be following up with this one-liner, “Yup, this is God’s country.”

“Those rooms were so small you couldn’t even change your mind in them, let alone your clothes.”

He was a little man named Noor and the tour guide at District Six Museum. We arrived early on a Sunday morning, only to find that our tour hadn’t actually been booked. Graciously, he still took the time to talk to us. A man with many memories, you could see the impact of Apartheid in his eyes. His grandfather had thirty children and four wives, all born from the same house on what was then Caledon Road in District Six. Despite owning twenty-nine other houses in the area, the family has yet to be recompensed with one, forty-six years later.

“It’s not my children I’m worried about…it’s the grandchildren.”

There was a sadness in her eyes, one that I couldn’t ignore as I left the train. I felt guilty for being white. Guilty for being privileged. In South Africa it seems that the two cannot be separated – not yet at least. I left the station only to have a black (for lack of another word) man spit at me. It seems he knew what I was thinking. Apartheid isn’t over – not yet at least.